Memories from a trip to Keswick - 2020
March 2020 - After missing out on last year's trip Al and I were back
to one of our favourite trips of the year - the spring week in Keswick.
Gordon, Jane, Jon, Sarah, Dave and new first timer Susan were looking
forward to a week's walking well away from the impending Corona virus
emergency that was quickly taking a grip on the nation.
SUNDAY - Keswick - Cat Bells - Rosthwaite - 8 miles\1700ft ascent.
The plan was to walk to Cat Bells from Keswick and take in the Maiden
Moor\High Spy ridge. The weather was overcast with a slight breeze as we
walked through the streets of Keswick before hitting the well-trodden path
to Cat Bells where plenty of other walkers were heading in the same
direction.
Rather than walk on the usual path we decided to introduce the element of speed
into walk by sticking to the road. Who knows if it had the desired effect.
I don't know if my memory is failing me but I seem to use a different path
at the bottom of Cat Bells every time I walk up it but it's not long before
you're on the main ridge where the views begin to open up. As we gained
height it was apparent that the wind would play a greater part in the day's
outcome than expected - it was beginning to get a tad blustery.
Gaining height on Cat Bells.
The small rocky sections were negotiated with care and before long we
reached the summit. When I say 'before long' I'm not talking about Harry
Bond 14 minutes long - I'm talking much longer.
Alison completes the scramble to the summit ridge. Susan, Gordon and Jane
are behind with Sarah, Jon and Dave looking on from below.
It was windy on top but the forecast had mentioned severe buffetting on
higher ground along with challenging walking conditions. This forced us to
drop the plan to take in Maiden Moor and High Spy so we decided to take the
Cumbria Way route to Rosthwaite where, magically, a pub lives. All of us
decided that this was an excellent idea,
Al and the bearded Susan pose in the summit wind.
The initial descent from Hause Gate to Manesty is quite steep and care needs
to be taken on the now common Lake District ankle steps. A bunch of moronic
mountain bikers descended around us without bothering to warn us of their
presence but normal mountain bike service was resumed when they were forced
to carry their bikes rather than actually ride them.
We stopped shortly before Manesty to eat lunch but Jim had a trick up his
sleeve - Jim has a drone. After a short period of drone assembly the drone
burst into life, surveyed the area and then flew eround taking photos and
videos. It was all very exciting. Care was taken not to fall over penguin
style as we ate our sandwiches whilst looking upwards at the buzzing
machinery. Some of Jim's work can be viewed here...
JIMDRONE.
The remainder of the walk saw us visit the well walked haunt of Borrowdale
and the Cumbria Way. We reached the Scafell Hotel's Riverside bar and
enjoyed a roaring fire and a few decent pints. We hadn't covered the
expected ground but had blown away a few cobwebs and girded the loins in
readiness for more walking.
MONDAY - Base Brown and Green Gable - 6 miles\2500ft ascent.
Today would see the walkers add a new Wainwright to their list,
Base Brown. It's placed amongst a sea of more popular hills that many of us
have walked time and time again but its odd location means that you don't have to walk over its summit to reach better things.
Jon, Sarah, Jane and Dave opted out of the walk so the rest of us drove down
to Seathwaite where we parked in the 'usual spot'. It was a lovely sunny day
but cool and rather windy and the forecast, again, was for more challenging
conditions higher up.
The walk kicks off instantly with a pleasant climb up the side of Sour Milk
Ghyll and the recent heavy rain ensured that we could enjoy a constant flow of
running water and the spectacle of numerous waterfalls. A small scramble
kept us on our toes but we all survived.
Up the hill on Sour Milk Ghyll.
We eventually reached the hanging valley of Gillercombe where a route option
became available - if I could spot it. Wainwright and others mention a
direct route where the main path is left to reach the base of a cliff where
another path can be found wriggling its way up the nose of the hill. I could
see lots of likely looking cliffs but no obvious route around them so
decided to plough onto the head of Gillercombe and attack the summit from
the south-west.
Gordon, Susan and Al ascending to the head of Gillercombe.
On reaching the summit of the hanging valley all that was left was a
slightly boggy 500m yomp to the summit of Base Brown. The views of the
surrounding giants was excellent as was the view north over to Skiddaw and
Blencathra.
Gordon, Susan, Al and Jim on the summit of Base Brown. A new Wainwright
for all of us. Susan had enough of he beard and moustache so shaved it
all off.
Next on the list was the 600ft ascent to the summit of Green Gable.
Great Gable looms large over our next objectve, Green Gable.
Gormless face on the ascent of Green Gable.
The wind speed increased as we ascended the 2601ft of Green Gable so any
plans to add Great Gable onto the day's itinerary were instantlu dropped. We didn't
spend much time on the summit but managed to grab a few shots of the
impressive view down into Ennerdale and Buttermere before descending to
Windy Gap where, suprisingly, it wasn't that windy.
Looking down into Ennerdale from neat Windy Gap.
The descent would see us dropping 1000ft down Aaron Slack where the path
changed from the new Lake District ankle design to classic scree to rock at
varying intervals - all very exciting. Jim sped down and decided to have a
breather whilst the
rest of us made the descent at our own pace.
The surface of Styhead was showing all the signs of wind-induced waves and,
as we descended, we could hear the wind crashing through the valley below.
We decided to take lunch before reaching the main Borrowdale - Wasdale path
rather than risk the might of the south-westerly. Jim's drone wouldn't be
making an outing today.
The walk down to Seathwaite was enjoyed in sunny, if windy, conditions and
before long we were back at the cars. It had been an enjoyable outing in
fine scenery with more cobwebs blown away.
TUESDAY - Latrigg
Al, Jane and Susan decided to have a jaunt up Latrigg whilst he
rest of us perused the shops of Keswick.
WEDNESDAY - Fellbarrow and Low Fell - 8.8 miles\2000ft ascent
We were all on for a chance to bag two new Wainwrights. I'd planned on
walking these hills using various routes including the Mosser road, a more
direct route and Wainwright's own preferred routes but Gordon mentioned that
his friend walked these hills from Thackthwaite so I decided that this may
make more sense after weeks of heavy rain and the potential for boggy ground
on the Mosser route.
Jon followed me to Loweswater in the car and, after an unexpected detour due
to the closure of Whinlatter, enjoyed a short moment of tomfoolery as I
failed to find the car park near to the Kirkstile Inn. There's no sign
informing drivers where the car park actually is but it's down the lane
signposted for Maggie's Bridge. Why doesn't someone add a sign that says car
park? Anyway, we didn't use the Maggie's bridge car park so drove a
mile down the road to park by the side of Loweswater with the idea that this may come up
trumps if we descend over Darling Fell on the return route.
There was just over 3 miles of road walking to be done before heading uphill
but the weather was good and the views over the north-western and western
fells kept us entertained.
Sarah and Jon on the road to Thackthwaite.
Al's hip decided to give her some grief on the road walk so a short
bout of stretching was required to ease the aching.
A worried Jane, Susan and Gordon assess Al's injury. I took a photo.
On reaching Thackwaite we admired the houses of the small hamlet and set off
uphill using a pleasant grassy path. As the path climbed higher into the fells
we were able to gain an appreciation of the lie of the land and noticed
the numerous potential short cuts that may assist our climb to Fellbarrow,
the first Wainwright of the day. It was difficult to assess whether the
numerous paths were 'real' paths or sheep tracks and there were also doubts
about their dryness. We decided to keep on the main path until we reached
its summit.
A small climb over Smithy Fell is required before reaching the final climb
to Fellbarrow's summit - it was windy.
Sarah, Jon and Dave at the top of the main path. Fellbarrow can be seen
in the centre.
The final climb to the summit of Fellbarrow was a short but steep affair but
our team of heroes managed to make the climb without supplemental oxygen.
Alison and Susan on Fellbarrow's windy summit.
Next was Low Fell. We headed back to the top of the main ascent path and
ignored the possible numerous short-cuts with a view that they'd be muddy
and generally crap underfoot. This would require a small reascent of Smithy
Fell but we're up to these sort of challenges despite our age and
appearance.
Lunch was taken just before the ascent of Low Fell in the ruins of a hut.
The final ascent to the summit of Low Fell is short and sweet and the great
views into the central Lakeland area were as good as Wainwright promised. It
could have been a bit clearer but we weren't complaining. In fact, the view
was so good I didn't take a photo.
A few minutes later we were complaining. I'd decided that the best route of
descent and the easiest for accessing the Kirkstile Inn for a post-walk pint
would to head down using a path that descends steeply to the east. I'd not
come across this in any of the route descriptions I'd read but we identifed
the start of the path and decided to go for it.
It was steep - very steep. A fence helped us to keep on our feet but the smooth
grass and the odd soily scramble made it all a bit of hard work.
Gordon, Jon, Sarah and Dave on the descent. The photo doesn't give the
steepness the justice it deserves.
A small flatter section gave some respite. Al and Gordon decided to take a
route slanting away from the path whilst Susan, Jane and I continued on the
path. In retrospect I think Al and Gordon made the right choice. The rest
followed Al's slanty route with the odd fall adding to the enjoyment. Oh how
we laughed.
On finally reaching the wall at the bottom of the path we took a rest as the
stragglers worked their way down. Sarah was struggling badly but had no
option but to carry on. The final few feet of the descent to the wood was
expected to be easier but the overgrown path, dead bracken and numerous
briars made this section particularly objectionable. We were all happy to
reach the wood and the flat path.
The rest of the walk was a breeze. Jon and I, kindly, let the others enjoy the warmth
and ales of the Kirkstile Inn whilst we yomped the mile down the road to
fetch the cars.
The Loweswater Gold in the Kirkstile Inn. The beer of the week by a
country mile.
THURSDAY - That walk we do from Keswick to Rosthwaite - 7
miles\1900ft ascent
This has become our go-to easy walk to cap off a week's walking - Keswick to
Rosthwaite via Walla Crag.
Jon, Jane, Susan, Alison and I left Sarah, Gordon and Dave in the house on a
glorious morning - probably the best day of the week.
Happy people on the final descent to Rosthwaite.
That was it! We decided to travel back home on the Friday instead of the
Saturday as Keswick's pubs and restaurants were becoming noticeably quieter and we all
needed time to plan for whatever the Corona virus emergency would bring. As it
turns out Friday was to be the last day of pub and restaurant opening as the
lockdown was introduced.
Despite all of this it had been a great week - as always. Cheers Gordon and
Jane!
