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The South Lakes Valleys - June 18th-22nd 2018

Sarah Gilson, Sean Bond, Jason Day, Janine Day, Mark Jones, Terry Jones, Jim Eason, Sandra Brooks, Ken Hodgkinson, Rich Salt, Netty Salt, Nick Barber, Jane Darlington, Gordon Darlington, Jon Gilson, Shelley Harrison, Paul Harrison, Alison Bond

DAY 1 - Ambleside to Rosthwaite (11.8 miles\2800ft ascent)

So, here we go again. A 'made up' walk was the target for 2018 with the aim to explore the southern section of the Lake District using devious routes over the passes and, occasionally, over the tops.

The first two days would see eighteen walkers take on the routes between Ambleside and Rosthwaite and Rosthwaite to Buttermere. The attendee list had changed from the previous year with no Mike or Alison and no Ann. We'd also lost Rob and Harry as we'd decided to walk outside of the school holidays.

Joining us for the first time were Jason and Janine who, having been tempted by the fleshpots and restaurants of the planned walk on Jersey, had been suckered into walking in the wet, shitty, Lakes. They will learn. Rejoining the Pighole crew were Harry and Shelley whose last walk with us was on Helvellyn nearly ten years ago. They would only be walking the first two days due to work commitments.

Jon and Sarah and Gordon and Jane were walking for the first time as married couples whilst Sandra was hoping that the heady heights of the Lakeland peaks and copious amounts of real ale would result in Jim making a romantic proposal. Would it happen?

There hadn't been a great deal of practicing for the walk which was unusual as the weather had been fantastic - probably the best period leading up to a walk in living Pighole memory. Terry had been bashing the canals around Longsdon so he'd at least made an effort.

A chest infection had kept me quiet and an ongoing foot\leg injury was causing issues for Sarah. Alison had fallen a couple of weeks before and injured her ribs, Rich had a niggly knee, Nick had cut his leg open whilst abseiling, Jon had a bad back, Netty had a foot problem and Jim had neck gout. What a bunch of cripples - The failure list was expected to be sizeable.

One of the day's aims was to reach the Scafell Hotel in Rosthwaite in plenty of time to commandeer seats in the bar as England were starting their World Cup campaign against Tunisia at 7pm. Failure to do this wasn't an option.

We huddled together by the Bridge House in Ambleside for the customary start photo and set off along the road where we'd soon turn right and head towards Rydal.

Heading towards Rydal.

The initial pace was steady and relaxed but it soon became clear that Terry was lagging behind so the frontrunners waited for Terry, Jon and Sarah at Rydal. The wait was longer than expected with the general opinion being that Sarah had stopped for her now legendary start of walk boot faff. Mark decided to head back to see what was going on.

Sarah wasn't having a boot faff - Terry had taken Jon and Sarah up the wrong path near to Rydal Hall so, after realising his mistake, walked back onto the correct (and rather obvious) route.

Gordon shows his 'what the fuck's going on face' at Rydal as we wait for the lost Terry. Nick decides to go it alone.

A helicopter was called but was quickly sent back as Terry, Jon and Sarah finally rejoined the group.

The next section on the Coffin Route to Grasmere was really enjoyable. The early morning grey was turning into bright sunshine and the views eastwards were an early sign of the visual treats that were to come. Before long we were at Grasmere - Jim stopped to buy waterproof spray whilst others bought drinks and snacks.

The next stage was to walk up Easedale and into Far Easedale before the gradual climb over Greenup Gill.

Terry looks at the route towards Greenup Edge from Easedale.

It was clear that Terry was walking far slower than normal but he insisted that he was taking his time. There was no need to rush as we'd plenty of time to complete the route without resorting to sleeping on the hills so we were happy to walk at an easy pace.

The anguished noises of the cattle at Brimmer Head farm suggested that today was the last day of their lives so the mood was slightly subdued as the easy tarmac path changed to the rocky road that would be the norm for the remainder of the day.

An obviously unhappy Terry refuses to enter the narrow portals of Far Easedale.

The bridge over Far Easedale Gill provided the opportunity to do a 'Scotty' but the lack of safe camera spots near the stream meant that the planned timer shot would be a manual affair so here's a chance to enjoy a team shot minus the author...

What did Ken say to Sandra? Hang on, is that his arm around her?

We continued up the valley under the crags of Deer Bields before slowly gaining height but someone wasn't happy.

Terry wasn't feeling right and had made the decision to turn back. It was obvious that something was wrong from the off as his slow starting pace had slowed even further on the rockier ground of the valley floor. Terry insisted that Mark continued the walk with the rest of us but Mark insisted on walking back with his dad - this turned out to be a good call as Terry fell shortly after leaving the group and needed Mark's assistance to get back to his feet.

The end of the day for Terry.

The climb to the hollow of Brownrigg Moss provides a fun example of a false summit as the top is simply a boggy hollow that leads to a further climb onto the 'real' Greenup Edge.

Jane on part one of the climb to Greenup Edge.

A stream crossing provided the more childish members of team to reach for their cameras in the hope that someone would become a cropper. Sadly, we all negotiated the perilous crossing with ease.

Jim took this shot in the hope that Sandra would be washed into Thirlmere after spotting Ken's bridge misdemeanors.

The final easy climb saw us reach the top of Greenup Edge where we decided to take lunch. Considering we were nearly 2000ft up the weather was quite mild but after fifteen minutes an extra top was required to protect against the cooling breeze.

Jason and Janine question their whereabouts during the lunch break.

Jim and myself suffer from the blight that is hill baldness. Jim also suffers from hill blindness.

Lunch eaten and now for the descent into Greenup Gill. Alison and myself had descended this route in wet weather a few weeks previously and had noted that it was quite shit so we warned the others to be careful with their footing. Fortunately the conditions today were very dry which made the descent a piece of cake.

Newly wed Gordon helps Jane on the descent of Greenup Gill. Newly wed Jon helps Sarah. Married Jason keeps a careful eye on Janine. Jim leaves Sandra to die alone.

Another short descent would see us enter the valley of Stonethwaite Beck and the hotel. The rocky path didn't facilitate quick progress but the smell of hops from the bar spurred Harry into action. The skies were beginning to darken.

The team descend Greenup Gill with the impressive Lining Crag on the right.

We grouped together before the final descent and picked a way over the loose stony track. The bar, and England, were waiting.

Harry and Shelley prepare to descend to Stonethwaite.

We walked straight to the bar in our usual dribs and drabs fashion and managed to find seats next to the TV. Kickoff was a couple of hours away so we, rather cleverly, agreed to return to our rooms separately in order to keep the seats. A rumour was circulating that sixty DoE youths were planning on watching the game in the bar so it was vital that our strict showering plan was adhered to. It worked perfectly - we enjoyed the best TV seats in the house along with beer, wine and food. England won, eventually, and all was good.

Terry had decided to abort the week and take on the role of Pighole Hill Rescue. Mark would return to the walking fold in the morning but would all of the others?

DAY 2 - Rosthwaite to Buttermere (8 miles\3200ft ascent)

Harry turned up to breakfast after a night of toe gout - Not good considering we had 3200ft of climbing to be done but a few tablets helped to ease the pain. Sarah had survived the first day and felt ready to take on the day's challenge. Alison's ribs were cracking and creaking but she too was ready to rumble and hopefully not tumble.

Terry, as expected, had abandoned all hope of walking and Sandra, complete with knackered knee, couldn't resist the opportunity of a free lift in Terry's taxi to Buttermere.

Today's walk was the odd-man out as far as the week was concerned as this was the only route that took to the summits - three Wainwrights. The three hills were Dale Head, Hindscarth and Robinson and the excellent forecast promised an excellent day.

We took the Cumbria Way route from Rosthwaite before heading left to ascend into the slaty portals of the now defunct Rigghead quarry.

Ascending Rigghead with Rosthwaite, our starting point, visible in the background.

There was a sense of relief as we reached the hollow holding Dale Head tarn but it became clearly evident that more effort was required before we gained the first summit of the day - Dale Head. The weather was excellent and the views improved as we gained height.

A further slog took us to the ridge which would eventually lead us to the summit.

Ken, Netty and Janine plod up stage two of the climb to Dale Head.

We stopped for a photo and drink breather in readiness for stage three of the climb as we now had a great view down into Newlands.

Photo stop. including furry black dog, before the final climb.

On reaching the summit of Dale Head we found that the temperature was warm enough to allow us to enjoy lunch with excellent all-round views. The summit of Dale Head (2470ft) was the highest point of the week's walk so we were lucky to enjoy such superb weather.

Team lunch on the summit of Dale Head.

Nick and Alison pose on the summit.

Sarah and Jon also decide to pose on the summit of Dale Head.

Next on the day's Wainwright list was Hindscarth which is slightly off route but a breeze compared to the morning's climb. On reaching the turn off point Netty and Jane decided to wait whilst the rest of us walked the easy 0.5km to the summit. These were new hills for many of the team with Alison and Sarah pleased to add more ticks on their Wainwright hit list.

Netty and Jane enjoy a chat whilst the rest of us take on the might of Hindscarth. Kirk Fell is the peak in the far distance with Looking Stead (Pillar) in the middle distance and Haystacks in front.

An easy downhill stretch saw us meet back up with Netty and Jane. All that was left was the slog up to the final summit of the day - Robinson.

The descent off Hindscarth with the giants of England in the background - Bowfell, Esk Pike, Great End, Scafell Pike and Great Gable.

The ascent of Robinson always seems longer than it should be but then again it is a 600ft climb so not insignificant.

Ken 'Plodder' Hodgkinson still going strong on the ascent to Robinson. The Honister quarries can be seen in the background.

It wasn't long before we all gathered on the summit of Robinson and took in the views. Everyone was walking well and all that was left was the descent, a rather sharp one, into Buttermere where large quantities of ale, wine and cider were waiting.

The team wait on the summit of Robinson whilst I scout out the route down.

The initial section of the descent was steep and at times rocky with the second section of the descent, over the aptly named Buttermere Moss, wet and squelchy. The final section of the descent reverted to being steep and rocky but the glorious views over Buttermere made this section an enjoyable part of the day's walk. Nick however, felt differently, as he was struggling on the steep sections.

Harry sprints towards Buttermere now that he can see the pub. Rannerdale Knotts is the low green hill to the right of the photo which I'm planning as being my last Wainwright.

Harry and Jim ran into Buttermere with the rest of the team coming in shortly after. The food, beer and wine were enjoyed by all with Terry and Sandra joining us after their day of non-stop sex shopping. Things were changing outside though with the darkening skies bringing in rain and wind. The forecast was correct.

This was the end of the walk for Harry and Shelley as they'd arranged to travel home on the Wednesday. Had they enjoyed the best of the weather? Would the long third day be a washout? Who would be joining Terry and Sandra in the Pighole rescue taxi?

Bridge Hotel jollity. Hang on, it's pissing down out there.

DAY 3 - Buttermere to Eskdale (12.5 miles\3200ft ascent)

We awoke to wind and rain. Netty (general tiredness) and Nick (general knackered achilles) were joining Terry and Sandra in Terry's taxis and Harry and Shelley said their goodbyes and returned home so we were down from eighteen to twelve - just like that!

The forecast was for the weather to improve during the morning but the rain meant that we all started with full waterproof attire. The wind did its best to ensure that we were pretty soaked after just five minutes of walking as were walked alongside Buttermere.

After about twenty minutes the rain stopped and the clouds began to lift. It looked like the better weather had turned up earlier than expected which allowed us to remove our waterproofs before the ascent to Scarth Gap. An abundance of flies were the only remaining issue but they soon disappeared as we gained height.

The rain clouds lift to reveal the best of Buttermere.

The clouds came and went as we climbed to the top of Scarth Gap so a few of us donned an extra top to protect against the chill.

After negotiating a wet summit we dropped into Ennerdale towards the Black Sail hut where the deforested valley could be viewed in all its grimness. The clouds hadn't lifted enough to show off the northern slopes of Pillar and Great Gable so we powered towards the hut and stopped for a drink and a toilet visit. Climb one of three was complete.

The day's second climb was from Black Sail over the Black Sail pass and into Wasdale. Shortly after starting the ascent a weary Alison informed me that she was 'tired of this'. Was the rib injury now beginning to tell?

A small scramble at the beginning of the ascent of Black Sail pass. Alison is tired.

Apart from a few path builders on Scarth Gap we'd not come across any walkers until we met a Dutch girl descending Black Sail. She informed us, rather jokily, that the route was terrible but that Wasdale was bathed in sunshine. She was lying.

After a gradual 800ft climb we reached the top of the pass and, again, decided to take on lunch at the highest point of the day. The dark clouds were still around but the threat of rain had now gone.

Rich and Jim decided to power on and take in a pint, or maybe two, at the Wasdale Head Inn. Al and I followed with the rest streaming down the pass behind us. Gatherstone Beck proved to be a tricky little crossing thanks to the overnight rain but we all crossed without incident.

The crossing of Gatherstone Beck. Time for wet boots.

Al and I purchased tea and coffee at Wasdale and so did the others on arrival. Rich and Jim were now on their second pint which was, frankly, disgraceful.

WTF!

Beer, tea and coffee finished so it was on for the final climb of the day towards Burnmoor Tarn. The clouds had now lifted to reveal the summits of the peaks that surround Wasdale Head so many of us were looking forward to the next section.

Team Pighole march out of Wasdale with Great Gable in the background. Mark's missing his dad.

The steady climb provided a chance to look back over to improving views of the giants of the Lake District. Wast Water was also now in view and the weather was becoming sunnier and warmer.

Jim, in head down mode, had continued beyond the path and had to be called back as he was aiming for Illgill Head and not Burnmoor Tarn, the correct destination.

Once on the moor a new view opened up towards the south. It's all very solemn and quiet around Burnmoor Tarn with the spooky looking Burnmoor Lodge doing nothing to ease the grimness of the surroundings.

Whilst on the moor three separate people asked me the same question - 'Is that Crinkle Crags and Bowfell?' The answer was 'No - that's Green Crag and Harter Fell'. I won't embarrass the idiots who were so far our with their map reading but as seasoned hill walkers Jim, Jon and Mark should really know better.

Bowfell Harter Fell and Crinkle Crags Green Crag from near Burnmoor Tarn.

I checked that Jim wasn't heading on the wrong path and waited for the others to join us. All that was left was a pleasant yomp over the moor and a descent into Eskdale (or probably Langdale for Jim, Jon and Mark).

After a niggling ankle problem earlier in the day Mark recovered on the march to Eskdale. The high peak in the background is Scafell.

The quality of the path into Eskdale ranged from really nice to rather shit as the terrain changed from grass to rock. The weather was now glorious and the final stage saw us walk alongside a pleasant stream surrounded by trees - all very nice.

The rest of the team were waiting in the bar so a few end of day drinks were consumed. It had been a good day with many varying views but the real bonus was the weather which improved far earlier than was expected. The forecast for the rest of the week was excellent so the majority of us were looking forward to the next day's walk to Coniston.

DAY 4 - Eskdale to Coniston (10 miles\2800ft ascent or 3.6 miles\700ft)

The thin curtains in our room allowed the sun to warm things up at a very early hour. It was glorious outside.

By the time everyone had eaten breakfast and ordered their handmade butties down in the little shop in Boot it was 9:45am which resulted in a later than planned start.

Alison however had a problem - she'd been suffering from stomach pains since the night before and wasn't sure whether to walk or not. The more sensible members of the party told her to join the Terry brigade as the route ahead offered little, if any option, to escape. Alison decided to abort and join Terry, Nick, Netty and Sandra.

The walk along the road allowed for reasonably fast progress before we turned onto the path which heads towards Penny Hill Farm. As we gained heights the views over upper-Eskdale opened up to provide superb scenes looking over to Crinkle Crags, Bowfell and Esk Pike.

Ken, Mark and Jason on the morning's climb with upper-Eskdale in the distance.

The path turned right at a point where a bracken-cloaked post was visible so on we climbed. After around 150\200ft of climbing I began to question the direction we were heading in as we were meant to be heading towards Harter Fell not Green Crag which was the direction we were walking in. I shouted Jim, who was in head-down mode again, to check his GPS with which he confirmed we were on the wrong path. In fact the maps suggested that the well used track we were on didn't exist and further investigation has confirmed that the track was in fact one of the old Peat Roads which are renowned in the Eskdale valley (but not renowned enough to be marked on any OS maps).

The Harter Fell mistake. The green\red junction being the location of the bracken-covered post with our navigational stupidity in red.

We shouted back to the rest of the team to stop and head back so that we could look for the correct path. As I descended I remembered the post which we'd past but couldn't believe that the seemingly invisible path was the correct route to Harter Fell but on reaching the post and clambering through the bracken a faint path emerged. We walked on the path for a few minutes and then I checked the time.

It was around 11am and we'd only managed to walk around 1.8 miles. We'd wasted a good 15-20 minutes on the wrong path and added 150\200ft of unnecessary climbing. We'd need to get a good pace going if we were to get back on track and my calculations suggested that at the current pace we'd be looking at another 5-6 hours to get to Coniston. The 9:45am start hadn't helped either.

It was decision time - would we carry on but increase the pace? Some of the team weren't really capable of upping the pace too much and bigger climbs lay ahead. There weren't many route options that would make a difference either so this idea was discounted too.

After a brief conflab we decided that all of us except Jim and Rich would walk back to Boot and get a taxi to Coniston. Jim and Rich would walk to Coniston as their increased pace would get them there at a reasonable time. I decided that I'd join the taxi brigade to meet up with poorly Alison who by now would be in Coniston with Terry and co.

Bollocks!

Team Quitter head back to Boot.

We reached the Brook House Inn at around 11:45am. The bar was open.

The team, visibly gutted at having not completed the walk, console themselves with alcohol.

The landlord at the Brook House contacted a local taxi company who confirmed that they could take us over to Coniston in a minibus but it'd be around 1pm until it was free. Oh dear - what could we do on a glorious summer's day whilst sat outside a pub in Eskdale?

Meanwhile, Rich was hoping that Jim 'head down' Eason would manage to map read his way to Coniston and not end up in Barrow.

Jim, after walking for 4 hours with his head down, realises that he's now in Bavaria.

The minibus arrived as expected and before long we were in Coniston. Now, what to do on a lovely summer's day in the town of Coniston where the Black Bull had its own brewery?

Alison was now feeling OK but wanted to kip for a few hours as she was still tired. Jim and Rich estimated that they'd reach Coniston at around 3pm after changing the intended route and walk over Walna Scar. They'd still made good time and almost on the dot met up with us at the Sun Inn where beers were enjoyed.

Netty's happy that Rich has managed to survive Jim's navigation whilst Sandra tells Black Forest Mountain Rescue to abort the search.

In retrospect, if we'd have known a minibus was available, the team could have shortened the day by bagging Harter Fell and maybe even Green Crag and returned to Boot in order to bus over to Coniston later in the day but we'd made the decision so that's that!

So, a bit of a wasted for most of us but a good walk for Jim and Rich. The forecast for the final day was superb and all that lay ahead was a low level walk to Ambleside. Netty and Nick had already decided to rejoin the pack and Alison was feeling good enough to walk too. Terry, despite our efforts to persuade him, decided that he wouldn't walk so he'd be driving Sandra whose knee was still knackered.

DAY 5 - Eskdale to Coniston (8 miles\1700ft)

As expected only Terry and Sandra were missing for our glorious return to Ambleside. The weather was stunning and Netty was well up for it despite getting 'spannered' the night before.

Jason and Ken looking cool despite the increasing temperature.

The route from Coniston follows the Cumbria Way for a few miles and passes through Tarn Hows Woods and Tarn Hows itself.

Gordon and Jane march with attitude.

Some of us had walked the same path during 2005's Cumbria Way but the weather and views were simply sensational today. I'd forgotten how nice a route it was.

One of the many scenic views. Enjoyed by all.

Tarn Hows was in full scenic mode and many photos were taken.

Oooh how lovely. Tarn Hows.

As we left Tarn Hows the route gained enough height to give views over to Fairfield and the southern end of the Helvellyn range.

Fairfield from the Cumbria Way.

After crossing the road we descended to High Park where the Langdale Pikes came into view.

Leaving High Park with Lingmoor Fell and Bowfell in the distance. Van ruins view.

Lunch would be taken at Skelwith Bridge which was still around 1.5 miles away but no one was in a hurry. The views just kept coming.

On reaching Park Farm we discovered that ice cream was for sale so a few of us gave in to the temptation and enjoyed a much needed cool refreshment.

On the way to Skelwith Bridge. Wetherlam is the hill in the background.

Bowfell, Esk Pike and the Langdale Pikes.

On reaching Skelwith Bridge we located a pleasant spot next to the river and sat for lunch.

Alison inspects the river life at Skelwith Bridge. Turns out that she's not a fan of Damsel flies.

Lunch was finished as was our spell on the Cumbria Way. We'd now continue east towards Loughrigg and Ambleside where a minor change of route saw us take on a small but stiff road climb to reache Tarn Foot. After a slight path mishap (where I took the wrong gate) we skirted the southern slopes of Loughrigg Fell before a short climb which gave us our first glimpse of Ambleside. More views and photos were enjoyed.

The route by Loughrigg.

Jason and Janine take a selfie as a lasting memory of their holiday in Jersey. Rich and Jim are sick of the sight of each other.

The descent into Ambleside gave great views over to the Fairfield Horseshoe and Rydal Hall where we'd lost Terry earlier in the week. It all seemed so long ago.

On reaching Ambleside and enjoying group hugs and kisses we enjoyed group beers with Ken kindly buying everyone a drink. Jim had found out that Terry and Sandra were sat outside the White Lion so that's where we headed.

It'd been another great walk.

Harry and Shelley had enjoyed their two days but jibbed out when the shit weather came in.

Newbies, Jason and Janine completed with ease and will definitely visit Jersey again.

Sarah, despite numerous foot and leg issues before the walk managed to complete against all odds.

Ken? Ken just keeps marching on.

Jim and Rich get a special gold for completing Thursday's walk to Coniston. However, Jim may have the special gold decision reversed due to more shit map reading.

Gordon and Jane also completed with ease which goes to show what getting married can do for a couple.

Alison, despite her pre-walk rib injury and stomach pains only missed one day.

Myself, Mark and Jon were fine throughout the week but were annoyed about missing the majority of Thursday's walk.

Netty and Nick 'enjoyed' their usual injuries but still managed to get a few days in.

Terry and Sandra were complete failures and need to have a word with themselves. Thanks to Mark and Jim for providing these words.

Jim didn't propose to Sandra but there's always next year!

So, now it's time for the now famous injury list ...

Walker	Blisters	Knee	Stomach Ache	Toe	Foot Ache	Achilles	Fatigue	Gout	Downstairs Distemper
Sean
Alison			X
Jason									X
Janine
Ken
Gordon
Jane
Rich		X		X
Netty
Nick						X
Terry							X
Sandra		X
Jim
Jon
Sarah	X
Mark					X
Harry								X
Shelley

Throughout the walk our news correspondent, Rich Salt, reported on a few of the stories encountered on the way...